I just wanted to share how I keep track of gusset rows, and everything else, for that matter.
I have a small note book, and for each sock I work on, I give it one page.
At the top, I write the name of the sock, Amount of CO sts, and size dpns I used.
Next comes the ribbing, so I just write the type I am using, (twisted rib, k1-p1, etc) and how many rows, using tally marks.
I keep track of pattern rows next. Based on the number of rows, I write that across one line, and tally underneath. I write how many total repeats of the pattern I did, and circle it. I stop here, where I begin the heel.
Then comes the heel. Most of my heels are done with heel flaps, so I track them in a set of knit and purl rows. If I am using a variant heel, lets say eye of the partridge, I will set it up as slip knit sets and slip slip sets. Remember, a set is the knit side and the purl side included together.
Then comes the gussets, and here I pick up the required # of stitches on both sides, remembering to keep track of the pattern rows as I knit across, (I also start a new pattern row tracking line here so I don't get confused when I knit the the second sock)
Now to decrease the gussets, I have a line that says gus dec and no dec. I alternate tally marks after each row is knit until I have decreased back down to the original number of stitches on the needle.
Now I start another new pattern row tracking line here for the foot portion, and make note of what pattern row I began with so I can be consistent with the second sock. I knit the foot to length, and then begin toe decreases.
Toe decreases are written as toe dec and no dec. I just tally the decreases until the toe is small enough to close.
Following is an example of my sheet.
I have a small note book, and for each sock I work on, I give it one page.
At the top, I write the name of the sock, Amount of CO sts, and size dpns I used.
Next comes the ribbing, so I just write the type I am using, (twisted rib, k1-p1, etc) and how many rows, using tally marks.
I keep track of pattern rows next. Based on the number of rows, I write that across one line, and tally underneath. I write how many total repeats of the pattern I did, and circle it. I stop here, where I begin the heel.
Then comes the heel. Most of my heels are done with heel flaps, so I track them in a set of knit and purl rows. If I am using a variant heel, lets say eye of the partridge, I will set it up as slip knit sets and slip slip sets. Remember, a set is the knit side and the purl side included together.
Then comes the gussets, and here I pick up the required # of stitches on both sides, remembering to keep track of the pattern rows as I knit across, (I also start a new pattern row tracking line here so I don't get confused when I knit the the second sock)
Now to decrease the gussets, I have a line that says gus dec and no dec. I alternate tally marks after each row is knit until I have decreased back down to the original number of stitches on the needle.
Now I start another new pattern row tracking line here for the foot portion, and make note of what pattern row I began with so I can be consistent with the second sock. I knit the foot to length, and then begin toe decreases.
Toe decreases are written as toe dec and no dec. I just tally the decreases until the toe is small enough to close.
Following is an example of my sheet.
Monkey Socks Twisted Rib (k1tbl, p1) Pattern Rows (3 rounds each) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 lll lll lll lll lll lll lll lll lll lll lll Eye Partridge Heel Slip Knit Sets (10) Slip Slip Sets (10) Turn heel (13 ea side) (this is so I get a wider heel) Pick up 21 ea side gusset sts ( knit row 1 of pattern as you go across) Knit one round (knit row 2 of pattern) Pattern Rows (during gusset decreases) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 -start w/row 3- lll lll lll lll ll ll ll ll ll ll ll Start Gusset Decreases (row 3 of pattern) Gus Dec No Dec Foot Pattern Rows (begin w/ row 7) 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 ------start w/ row 7------- l l l l l lll lll lll lll lll lll lll lll lll ll ll end with row 9 toe dec no dec Close toe. That's all there is to it! Now knit the second sock, using this page as your reference. |